It was an interesting ferry trip across to Bari from Dubrovnik. We waited in the queue to be directed but when no direction was forthcoming, and several other vehicles seemed to be making their way to border control, we got out to investigate. Apparently we were supposed to have been down to the Jadrolinja Ferries office a few hundred metres away to collect our boarding passes and then we could get in the queue for border control. How were we supposed to know that?
Having got our boarding passes we then waited forever in the queue at border control. In our queue it seemed to be taking about ten minutes per vehicle to get the passports and vehicle V5 document checked. We’ve never been asked for the V5 before and I’m not sure what they actually do with them but the border man was tap tap tapping away on his computer. Finally through border control we were directed on which lane to queue up in. Lorries to the left, everybody else to the right.
The lorries were loaded first but oh look, they’re going on backwards. Every last one of them. Oh joy, it looked like we would be reversing onto the ferry then. Yep, other than a few cars everyone went on backside first. There was only one way in and one way out of the ferry. Thankfully by the time it was our turn the bowels of the boat were pretty much full and just a fairly short reverse was required. Just as well it was Tim doing the driving as my reversing is hopeless. In all the ferries we have been on we have never been packed in so tight. It was all a little too close for comfort.
On board we felt like we had stepped back in time by thirty years. In the late 80’s and early 90’s we made several trips to France with Brittany Ferries from Plymouth to Roscoff and the boat felt like the same vintage. I even said at the time ‘I bet Jadrolinja bought this boat off Brittany Ferries’ as there were a few French safety signs still lurking about. So, I’ve just looked it up and Wikipedia reliably informs me that Jadrolinja did in fact buy the MF Dubrovnik from Brittany Ferries who had owned it from 1989 to 1996. It was built in 1979 in Ireland for a UK company. So there we are a nice useless piece of information for you. It’s no wonder a blog post takes me so long to write when I get side tracked all the time.
Rolling off the ferry in Bari it was disorganised chaos as we were directed into oncoming traffic coming off another ferry which had just docked. They went to border control to the left of our ferry whilst we went to border control to the right of theirs. Once again getting through border control took an age but we were finally waved through by a man sporting jeans, casual jacket, shades and a big gold sheriffs’ badge pinned to his jumper. All very Miami Vice!
Once out of the port the fun began. We knew coming into a port city in Italy would be a challenge but you do really need six pairs of eyes to keep track of the potholes in the road, mopeds screaming up the inside, overtaking cars, cars coming at you on the wrong side of the road, pedestrians ambling across the road, road works and hundreds of billboards and signs. It wasn’t really the best time for our free sat nav app to have an off day but an off day is what she had. After sending us in the wrong direction back towards the city for a second time I switched her off with a quick jab. We finally managed to get clear of the city and its suburbs using the Maps.Me app. I know I mention that app many times but it has been a life saver.
We arrived at a Sosta (Italian aire) at the Area Masseria Rodogna visitor centre outside Matera after a sixty five kilometre bone shaking drive, much of it in driving rain, feeling a bit jaded and wishing we’d just stayed at Bari port to depart on the next available ferry to Greece.
But what a difference twenty four hours makes. I hadn’t done any research on Matera. I hadn’t even downloaded the Rough Guide to Italy at that point. I had just picked the sosta from the good reviews it had on the Camper Connect App. The consensus of opinion was that it was a beautiful area and a beautiful town. We didn’t realise what a treat we were in for. Sometimes doing no research and having no preconceived ideas about a place is a really good thing. And so it proved with Matera. We were quite simply mesmerised by the sheer scale of the place set on the edge of a gorge.
Benedictine Monks built rock-hewn churches and monasteries into the stone, now called the Sassi (literally meaning ‘stones’), during the Middle Ages. Later the 1500 or so cave dwellings were taken over and dug deeper by peasants and farmers seeking safety from invasions. The people lived alongside their livestock in their underground homes.
By the 1940’s, though, Matera was seen as ‘the shame of Italy’ with masses of people living in the Sassi in squalor and poverty. In the 50’s twenty thousand Sassi-dwellers were forcibly removed from their underground homes and rehoused in modern districts in the new town. The Sassi was abandoned and left to the ravages of nature.
In the late 1950’s a group of students, who had grown up in the town, founded a cultural club to set about discovering Matera’s past. Over the years the group identified over one hundred and fifty cave churches concealing priceless Byzantine frescoes. As the students grew older and became lawyers and politicians and businessmen they lobbied for funding to restore the Sassi and by 1993 it was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It will also be the European Capital of Culture in 2019.
Homes, B&B’s, hotels, restaurants and workshops now make up a large part of it with restoration still ongoing. It easily made it into our top ten spectacular sites on our trip.
Next we trundled the seventy kilometres east to the village of Alberobello making a Lidl and Launderette pitstop along the way.
The area surrounding Alberobello is home to over 1500 trulli.
Unique to the Puglia region the origins of these mortarless dwellings are obscure but it is generally thought that the dwellings, lived in by people working the land, could easily be pulled down when the tax inspectors arrived thereby saving their feudal lords some dosh.
The drive over to Alberobello was very picturesque with the little pointy houses, some with large extensions, dotting the farming landscape enclosed by neat low dry stone walls.
Many of the trulli in Alberobello have been taken over by tourist shops with a growing number being snapped up for holiday homes. You won’t find a bargain though as they aren’t cheap.
On the way to Ostuni, or ‘white city’, as it is known we had our worst narrow street encounter on the trip so far. As co-pilot I wasn’t paying attention when I should have been and didn’t realise until it was too late that the sat nav was taking us through the historic centre of Cisternino. No going back – it was one way. All we could do was breathe in and hope for the best. Nope not enough room without hopping onto the pavement being mindful of over hanging balconies and steps up to front doors. The only problem was we couldn’t get enough angle to get both the front and back wheel up the kerb and the back wheel persisted in sliding along the kerb with Ollie’s back end skewing out getting closer and closer to the parked cars. Nope still not enough room as one car had been abandoned in a space with the front end on the pavement and the back end sticking out into the road. By this time we’d drawn quite a crowd of onlookers and were being beeped at by the increasing line of traffic building up behind. No pressure then. Just when we thought we weren’t in a position to either go forwards or backwards without damage to us or the other vehicles the owner of the sticking out car arrived and very helpfully nudged it a few inches further onto the pavement so we could get by. Once clear we pulled over as soon as we could to let the queue of cars past and for us to breathe out again and regroup! It was a close one. Hopefully never to be repeated. Until the next time!
After tackling the most complicated parking metre ever known to man at a carpark in Ostuni we had a think about our next plans.
Do we want to spend any more time in Italy? If not, where for winter? Greece, Sicily or Sardinia? Greece was on the loose plan when we set out on season 2 back in April. We were just forty kilometres from Brindisi where we could get a ferry. Mmm, too tempting. Yep, let’s do it. Greece here we come……….the rest of Italy will have to wait for another time.