Onwards to Zagora and through the Drâa valley to Ouarzazate…. .

The drive across the wide open arid plains from Merzouga towards Zagora and beyond to Ouarzazate was very relaxed.

The road to Zagora.

Granted, I’m not the one that did the drive but with little traffic on the road and just a few small towns to negotiate it seemed alright to me!

I know I keep putting these pictures in but it’s just to show how vast it is and how traffic free in between towns.

We were waylaid on the way to Zagora for a couple of nights at Camping Serdra which is found after a six kilometre drive along a very good track off the main N12.

The piste to Camping Serdrar.

Apart from a small village nearby the nearest town was sixteen kilometres away.  Considering it is in the middle of nowhere it’s a really popular site particularly with some of the French that tow quad bikes or dune buggies behind their vans.  I can see why as the site is pristine (for Morocco), tea is served on arrival, it has two washing machines, unlimited hot water and the facilities block is spotless.

Camping Serdrar.

We weren’t complaining but I still find it a little unsettling to plug in, quaff tea, put a load of washing on and soak up the sun after having driven past ladies walking along the edge of the roadside carrying heavy loads of some sort of plant on their backs, some of whom waved at us to stop indicating that they wanted some food.  Likewise as we drove along the piste to and from the campsite children came running alongside waving wanting us to stop to give them something.  Even though we’ve bought things that perhaps we don’t really need from sellers along the road we haven’t given anything to anyone who has been begging.  It is difficult to know what is the best thing to do but if all the vans stopped outside the campsite to give something to the children would they then skip school to spend their days lining the road to the campsite?

I should send this photo in to the MMM magazine!

Whilst at Camping Serdrar we didn’t do much of anything but we did take a walk up to the top of one of the nearby hills just to soak up the vastness of it all and were rewarded by seeing a bit of wildlife.


I thought this was a bird when it flew past me but the way it landed wasn’t like a bird.  It must be some sort of grasshopper thing but it was huuuge.
Not sure what this one is either but it was doing a good job at blending in.


We were just on the point of breaking out the emergency tin of spaghetti hoops when our food order arrived an hour late!


One of the towns on the way to Zagora.
See, no traffic again.


Camping Sinibad in Zagora.
A walk through the palmeries from the campsite.


The view from the top of Jbel Zagora.

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52 days to Timouctou…….by camel of course.

The road from Zagora to Ouzazate takes you right through the Drâa valley and up and over the Tizi-n-Tiniffift pass (1,660m) from where you get a first glimpse of the foothills of the High Atlas mountains in the distance.

The route between Zagora and Agdz.




It’s Kasbah Kountry.

We stopped for the night at Agdz to break up the drive from Zagora to Ouazazate, a busy bustling little town full of life.

Camping Kasbah Palmeraie at Agdz.  Note we now have Morocco on our map, albeit a homemade Morocco as our stickers only cover Europe!



Traditional bricks drying out in the sun.
You can take a tour around the Kasbah next to the campsite which is in the process of being slowly restored.
It was just a short tour as the chap that normally does the tours was away.


The village outside the Kasbah is no longer lived in.
The route between Agdz and Ouzazate over the Tizi-n-Tiniffift pass.


In Ouzazate we bought another carpet!  I hadn’t intended on buying anything but we were invited in for a look.  The trouble is I really like the stuff that is sold here and we had been toying with replacing the fitted carpets in the van.  We’re onto our second set now and they need replacing again.  Some people would question why we even have carpets in the van in such a small space but, for me, it’s non negotiable.  I like a bit of carpet underfoot.  We had talked about trying to get some made up whilst we are here but why would I want beige acrylic carpets again when I can have some mats made out of camel wool which are much more attractive, can be washed and are easier to fling out of the van when it needs a sweep out?  So anyway we started in on the negotiations for a small carpet.  The seller said that as he liked us he would give us ‘a brother price’.  Mmm Hmm.  Ok.  1300 dirham was his opening gambit.  Way too much for us.  I made a cheeky offer of 300.  After much sucking of teeth and discussions about the fact we didn’t really need the carpet and blah blah blah he eventually came down to 600.

Carpet negotiations again.

I offered 350 and apologised saying we were just too far apart to come to an agreed price and made for the door.  I really believed I’d offered a price below one that he could make a profit on but no sooner than you could say Inshallah the carpet was in a bag and thrust under Tims arm. So much for ‘a brother price’ then!  Yes it’s beige but I have pushed the boat out this time as it does have a bit of colour in it.

Camping Municipal Ouzazate.

Not far from the campsite in Ouzazate we spotted a little shack with smoke billowing out the roof and a queue of two or three people outside.  Three ladies were inside.  One was making dough and moulding it into flatbread, one was stoking a homemade bread oven in the corner and the third was sorting out the bread as it came out.  At three dirham each it was the best bread we’ve had since we’ve been here and made an excellent base for a pizza.

We ate most of the first loaf on the way back to the van.
Domino’s eat your heart out.  We did have to blow some of Tims coveted stash of cheddar though and I had to cut it down a bit to fit it in the oven.
The restored Kasbah in Ouzazate.
A very sleepy market at 4.00pm in Ouzazate.

It was just too hot in Ouzazate to stay more than one night (I know it’s a hard life) so we moved on up towards the Dadès gorge to cool off for a bit.